Marmite or Arequipe? July 26th 2009

Marmite or Arequipe ?

Bogotà to me is a bit of a marmite of a city…when I take a bite I like it, when I take a second bite, I still like it but the bitter taste could easily put me off it.

The city hasn’t really grown on me, it’s immensity tires me out most days and at the same time I enjoy the bus rides, never sure it is going where you want, polluted, bumpy, lively, filled with songs, sellers of anything and everything edible that has a ‘Colombian flavour’, crosses, saints and broken seats. I was the lucky audience of a charming couple of singers the other week. They were both about 15, beautiful and humble. I thought nothing of them when they got on the bus going North. The boy started on his guitar and the girl followed with a voice strong and clear, no matter how many forced stops the bus made, no matter how many zig zag it made or how many people pushed past them, the girl sang beautifully. She sang about her life I suppose, having no papers, not getting any support and believing in God…A moment that lasted a few stops, a memory that is staying with me.

As much as I complain about the long bus rides, I enjoy them. You get to see the different ‘sectors’ in town, shops seem to be put together according to the products they sell. You can find an area with only pet shops, plastic wrappings, mechanical parts, flowers, umbrellas, tombstones, mariachis, printing, shoes…Pretty much all you need is somewhere in this town, it’s a matter of finding it.

The house we live in is near the university, it isn’t the prettiest part of town. Our street is a little ran down, on one side are some shops and some yummy bakeries, on the other is a stream, most commonly known to be the latrines of our neighbours. The ones who sleep all curled up on themselves on a piece of cardboard, a bit of grass, a bench, on their trolley. They are always there, they are the neighbours. Knowing they are there makes me feel disgust of myself for my moaning about the ever changing weather, my intolerance to the pollution and much more. One night the electricity cables of the house’s ground floor were robbed…Instant reaction: argh, how can people work without electricity, without internet? Selfish mind…Really the question is what pushes people to rob cables? Desperation? Addiction? Lack of alternative?

Yes, Bogotà, marmite city! You go out and end up in the Zona T or Zona Rosa, in the North, shops open until late, people are well clothed, many yuppies and wanna be seen. Bars and restaurants with terrasse, people consuming, enjoying life, relaxing after a busy day at work, a busy week. The perfect place for me to feel out of place. Beautiful people all around. The contrast stings. One of the first nights here, I left the club we went to, too much discomfort, still trying to understand my new surroundings and felt lost in a sea of clashes.

Bogotà is just too big for me to say whether I like it or not, there are parts I like, but they are not where I spend most of my time, Usaquen and its little church square, La candelaria and its steep streets and colourful façades is absolutely picturesque, La Macarena with its lively bars and delicious smells, Teusaquillo and its architecture. Such variety.

What I know is that Bogotà and its surroundings are more like arequipe (dulce de leche)…the milky toffee that rejoices my tastebuds, sweet, smooth with a more-ish taste!

Love and arequipe to all!